Folkwear’s Russian Settler’s dress: Sarafan

22 Mar

A bit late for last year’s Vintage Pattern Pledge, but hey, it’s done! And please to also admire my lovely overgrown garden :-) It’s about 3 times bigger out there now, the middle of the wet, than it was when these piccies were taken towards the beginning of the wet season. This picture was taken on a dark cloudy day in murky light, but the camera picked up all that glare. Inneresting…

Oh wait, this is a sewing blog? Not gardening? oh ok then…

I used this lovely pattern from Folkwear:


The construction is supposed to be very straightforward. Two rectangles of fabric, the front one with a bit of shaping at the top for the waist. I added in a dart at bust-level to accommodate my D-cup bust, however I could have gotten away without it.

I accidentally adding some shaping round the waist and hips, where the pattern is literally straight down. I cut it a bit wrong then to fix it I needed to add to the hips. I wish I’d been able to make it without that hip shaping. I figure why bother making something different to your usual fare then accidentally make it half-similar after all. Ah well…

The pleats were also straightforward, till I misread the tape measure (dyslexia, honest!) and thus miscounted. Lots of faffing round and eyeballing it eventually got it Good Enough. In the notes on the history of the Russian Settler’s sarafan it says the women making them would do the pleats completely by eyeballing it, creating a mass of tiny pleats. Wow. I’m impressed!

I brought the ribbons up from where they were indicated on the pattern and still they held the pleats down to my waist. I was after more of an empire-line skirt. More swishy. Butterflies need to swirl!

Sarafans usually have two straps from the front, joining as one in the centre-back. I made two so I could wear it with a bra, without a top on underneath the dress.

Preparing the pleats – a task impossible without the help of a sewing-cat …

All pleated fairly evenly. Finally!

Getting distracted by a ta-ta lizard on the screen door

The pattern said traditionally the hem is finished with rows of ribbons and matching lace. I envisioned it with a good few inches of lace, but the only matching lace was very narrow, though prettily gathered. So I used the same fabric as the chest bands and shoulder straps as a ruffle to add to the effect. I may or may not be a total sucker for ruffles of any sort :-P

This photo makes me laugh, I look like I’m Receiving The Light! However I wanted to show how flat the front is on this style of dress. I wanted something different to my usual fitted silhouette and I got it :-) I love how the fabric released from the pleats curls over the hips and flares nicely.

Lovely, isn’t it?

It just had one major flaw. So major in fact that I’ve cut the top band off and will remake it as a Tina Givens-style lagenlook-y dress (Well that’s the plan, at least.)

In butterfly purple and grey   A sort of modern does 1920s dress. Greta dress by Tina Givens

The flaw? Look at the hemline in the above photo, the front is higher than the back. It wasn’t sewn that way, but there’s twice as much fabric in the back as front, so gravity pulls the whole dress backwards after only a few minutes of wear (or adjustment). The front chest band rides up nearly to the neck. It was SO uncomfortable. I tried some lingerie straps to help anchor it, they didn’t work at all. I considered a waist stay but the loose nature of the dress made that inappropriate. It’s actually a similar issue to the realities of the Walkaway Dress that so many people found. The heavy back pulls the whole thing out of alignment.


And it was such a pretty pretty dress *mourns*

To be fair to the pattern there’s one version with equal amounts of fabric front and back. I’m sure that would have worked out just fine.

I am sure I can create something equally lovely, maybe even with better swirl for the butterflies on the fabric to swirl beautifully. But I’m still very very sad about this not working :-(

Mind you, there’s a definite satisfaction in just having made the dress, and all those pleats! And I have the photos to prove it :-P

Historical Sew Monthly thoughts

4 Jan

Halfway through last year (like you know, 1914!) I joined the Sew Historical Fortnightly. It’s a group that works on challenges set by The Dreamstress each fortnight. I didn’t manage to make anything, but this year it’s a monthly challenge, which I feel a LOT more able to achieve. Yay!

I’ve decided that whatever I make will have to have everyday wearability. I can’t afford to make costumes just for the sake of it. And I have nowhere to wear them anyway. Not to mention just about everything I’ve ever seen in historical costuming looks way too HOT to wear. And I’m just not made of the stern stuff that Jeanie Gunn of Elsey Station was made of. I can’t wear layer upon layer of clothing in this climate. (I’ve seen some of her original clothing. OMG. Noooo way could I wear them here! O_O Mataranka is slightly different to Darwin – less humid and hotter in the hot months and cooler in the cool months but still, that woman was incredible.)

Speaking of Jeanie Gunn, I’m hoping to make things that are reflective of the history of Darwin and northern Australia. I’m hoping to look beyond the Northern Territory’s Top End, to northern and far northern Queensland as well as northern WA. I’m not sure how feasible this will be but I’m gonna try!

I’m also planning on pushing my skill limits, which is, after all, part of the point of doing challenges!

Last but not least, I want to use as much stash as possible, so the challenges may end up being done in fabrics with very modern patterns printed on them with very modern dyes! (They’ll also thus have the very modern advantage of being able to be chucked in a very modern washing machine. Things get washed to death in this climate because they get icky so quickly. Another thing I have always wondered about how Jeannie Gunn coped with.)

So here are the challenges for 2015, and thoughts on what I might do for each challenge.

  • January – Foundations: make something that is the foundation of a period outfit.

I’ve wanted to make a pair of Regency stays from this pattern for ages but I’ve never done anything like it, which has been offputing. Time to dust the pattern off and give it a go!

  • February – Colour Challenge Blue: Make an item that features blue, in any shade from azure to zaffre.

Too easy! I love blue, this is too easy! One of the things mentioned in The Dreamstress (woman who’s running the challenges) says in her post on how to stay sane (!) while participating, is to do accessories. And I want some blue sashes to go with a classic white version of this dress I’m planning to make.

  • March – Stashbusting: Make something using only fabric, patterns, trims & notions that you already have in stash.

The 1780’s portrait dress is to be made with some white cotton already in my stash.

  • April – War & Peace: the extremes of conflict and long periods of peacetime both influence what people wear.  Make something that shows the effects of war, or of extended peace.

I’ve always liked the 19teens fashions. After watching the ABC production ‘ANZAC Girls‘ I am really keen to make something from that time. The Australian War Memorial blog has all sorts of great information on recreating the clothing the nurses wore. I actually have some red wool – I could possibly make into one of those capes. I could wear when I head south on a visit to cooler climes. Alternately there’s a beyoootiful everyday outfit the woman who was the narrator wore when they were in Egypt at the start of the war.

  • May – Practicality:  Fancy party frocks are all very well, but everyone, even princesses, sometimes needs a practical garment that you can DO things in.  Create the jeans-and-T-Shirt-get-the-house-clean-and-garden-sorted outfit of your chosen period.

I could always do with more aprons :-) I rather like C and D.

  • June – Out of Your Comfort Zone: Create a garment from a time period you haven’t done before, or that uses a new skill or technique that you’ve never tried before. 

HA! I think every single challenge is going to be out of my comfort zone! I’m not really sure what I’d do that is extra-out of my comfort zone that I could still wear for everyday. Perhaps drafting something?

  • July – Accessorize: The final touch of the right accessory creates the perfect period look.  Bring an outfit together by creating an accessory to go with your historical wardrobe.

Well! Much fun with this one. I accidentally bought a pattern similar to this. I honestly don’t know how it ended up in my shopping cart!

  • August – Heirlooms & Heritage: Re-create a garment one of your ancestors wore or would have worn, or use an heirloom sewing supply to create a new heirloom to pass down to the next generations.

I have some crocheted lace collar and cuffs from my great grandmother. I could perhaps reproduce them, and make a blouse appropriate to put them on. This is far enough in the future I would have time to do the actual crochet.

  • September – Colour Challenge Brown: it’s not the most exciting colour by modern standards, but brown has been one of the most common, and popular, colours throughout history. Make something brown.

By this stage, if I’m still going, I have no idea where I’ll be with all of these challenges, so I’ll leave that to the future :-)

  • October – Sewing Secrets: Hide something in your sewing, whether it is an almost invisible mend, a secret pocket, a false fastening or front, or a concealed message (such as a political or moral allegiance)
  • November – Silver Screen: Be inspired by period fashions as shown onscreen (film or TV), and recreate your favourite historical costume as a historically accurate period piece.
  • December – Re-Do:  It’s the last challenge of the year, so let’s keep things simple by re-doing any of the previous 11 challenges.

Vintage sewing pattern pledge update

29 Dec

The original plans of what patterns to sew totally went out the window. No worries, I replaced them with a whole lot more though.

Firstly what I have done so far:

Bolivian Milkmaid’s jacket in a blue velvet. Mmm! Sadly the fit was so boxy I am not sure I can adjust it to be more flattering. I didn’t like the peplum either, with the boxy waist it just looked huge, not flattering.

Mind you, I learnt an enormous amount! And I also had a lovely jacket for the trip I went on. Here’s the best photo, where I’m pulling the jacket in at the waist in the back. It doesn’t look too bad at all in that photo!

I think this macro I found on Sew Pretty In Pink’s blog. I think it’s appropriate for this jacket too (I so <3 Anne!)


Next, I sewed up Mrs Conover’s blouse.

Miss Conover's blouse, 1921


Here’s my mock-up version in an old sheet that’s a horrible colour on me. I decided it was a terrible pattern, until my mum and best friend both convinced me the icky bit was the fabric, not the style:


I found when done up in nice fabric that it was just too big. I took it in, then took it in, then took it in. Each time I did it looked better and better. I finally stopped taking it in when it was this big.

But do you think I could get a decent shot of the front? NOPE!!! and then it was all spoiled anyway when the green fabric colour ran the first time I washed it, and made the yellow icky *cries* I love the top so much I’m planning on trying to fabric-paint the neckband yellow again. *hopes*

Next was the swirl dress! Soooo much fun, the sewalong group was fantastic, and Beccie was also fantastic.

The fourth vintage sew – two dresses from this mid-1970’s pattern

For me…

And for my mum…

Fifth pattern: made the underwear part of this pattern too but no piccies yet.


So that’s six garments from 5 patterns.

Well that was my original pledge amount. Why aren’t I finished yet?

Well… I got all inspired by Amanda of Bimble and Pimble’s nightie-tops. (Ok, properly the Alice top :-P But I just so have a vintage nightie pattern that is very similar to this!) I hope it’s not rude to just borrow the picture of the blog post. But it looks so good! And so cool! And so inspiring! And that dotted swiss voile is made with neon dots!!! (Go read the whole post, that’s one groovy top :-)


I just so happened to have bought 3 vintage nightie patterns not long before christmas! (Yeah yeah I love nighties :-P) Now what on earth could I do with those patterns??? I’m aiming for photos and a post about it on New Year’s Eve my mum’s birthday to nicely round out the vintage pattern pledge!

Not quite what I expected, but I can handle it…

18 Dec

I just got my christmas-present-to-myself box of fabric from! Ooooh pretty pretty fabric….

Just not quite what I expected though, so I’m changing plans.

Firstly, I bought some delicious rayon knit fabrics hoping some nice knits might work well with the whole weight-change crazyiness. I bought navy, plum and lavender. Can I say YUM?!!!

Stretch Slub Rayon Jersey Navy

But much lighter than I expected. And wider! But it will be too hot if I double the fabric up. *sigh* I’ve abandoned the plans and will figure out what I can get out of the fabric as I go.

I just want clothes that fit! So I’ decided to go for TNTs:

And this – without the weird elastic across the boobs effect:

A top-version of this dress of the lilac, with plum trim, I’d only need to line the bodice.

And a t-shirt out of this fabric (butterflies! I love butterflies :-) in the beige view of the pattern below, and if there’s enough fabric, a cute pair of undies too.

Cotton Jersey Knit Butterflies White/Blue

I also bought this stunning peacock craft cotton fabric … and yes it IS as stunning irl as the picture is.

Plume Peacocks Multi/Black


… as the panel in this pattern.

I bought half a yard but didn’t think it through that the peacock is upright, not on its side, *facepalm* so unless I want a sideways peacock I don’t have enough length to make the skirt panel. However it’s SO beautiful I am going back to buy a full yard. I’m very sure I can use the excess in something else because it really is stunning.

Lastly, I bought this Downton Abbey fabric (delicious colours Mmmm!)

Downton Abbey Dowager Countess Large Medallions Purple

Planning to make it up in this pattern I bought recently:

However the pattern is very large – especially when it will be draped over a rather short me! Lesson: look at the tape measure in the photo to get an idea of proportion before making plans! No way could I be bothered making myself crazy pattern-matching all those panels, and it would look like a dog’s breakfast without it. My sanity – and really, the fabric – both demand a simply-structured dress.


I’ve always wanted a dress in the style of Picnic at Hanging Rock, but I’ve always been scared if I had one in white, and wore it to a picnic I’d disappear and never come back! Don’t laugh! It’s a serious possibility! Just watch the movie.

Picnic at Hanging Rock tribute by Mirko Macari, via Flickr

However I’m sure if it was in a different colour I wouldn’t be running that risk.

Or should I just go straight for the Downton Abbey styles? The simple cream, or the white with scattered motifs. Or perhaps the dusky rose though that demands two layers over the skirt. Hot :-(


There’s a decade or two-ish between when each is set, and really, once pared down to a tropical-wearable dress, there’d be even less difference in a dress. The question is, can one dress fulfil my desire for both a Picnic at Hanging Rock dress and a teens era dress? Must think more on this…

Swirl dress!

1 Dec

Here’s the swirl dress I’ve sewn as part of a sewalong I’ve referred to a couple of times, held by the talented and awesome Sew Retro Rose.

Here I tried the classic pin-up girl pose so commonly seen on sewing and fashion blogs; I think mine needs some work. But it probably won’t get worked on as in taking this photo, the whole ‘pin-up’ women as sexual images for men’s consumption thing did upsetting things to my head. (Hence the rather unsure smirk on my face.)

Moving on to happier thoughts, the front trim for the original pattern stopped at the shoulders. Since I’m not really into coffin dresses, I continued it round the back and down to the waist. A word on the fit of the back, shown below, I think it’s about as good as I can get it until I learn how to fit it more effectively. Due to the wrap-over part it was much harder to work out how or where to take the extra length up, so I just took it off at the waist. It’s good enough.

I love the effect of the bias-cut back skirt that is subtly observable in gingham. The front is on the straight grain, and the back is a semi-circle so curves from straight at the sides to the bias as the edge of the wrap. I love it!

You know, I’m not sure if I was just standing oddly, or not, but in this photo I look like I really do have a sway back. I never thought I did, just that I had a very short back. I should keep an eye out for it to see if that is my natural posture or not.

The side view, for what I can learn about fitting:

  • Perhaps my FBA wasn’t big enough? There’s more differentiation between front length and back length in my body than there is in the dress. Or perhaps it’s being distorted by catching under the arms?
  • The back’s too long but we knew that already :-P
  • It’s also too wide across the shoulders, so it’s catching under the arms when I have my arms forwards, rather than falling away from my arms smoothly like it would if properly fitted across there. I’ll take it in. The skirt’s fine though.

In this photo I don’t look at all like I have a sway back.

See the wavy hem? In the hopes it might flair the skirt in a suitably vintage manner, I put some horsehair braid from my stash in the hem. First time I’ve ever used it, and I’ll definitely use it again, it helped sew the hem really easily and with no warping of fabric as I went round the bias parts of the hem. Awesome!

However, the poor braid had been stored in a nice neat oval-shaped roll for so long, when unrolled and put into the hem, it still held the curves of the roll. I am very sure all I need to do is press it on a suitably low temperature to straighten it out, but I didn’t have time before these photos.

I’ve since washed the dress, (the braid handled being through a normal wash cycle perfectly), but it still causes the waves shown above! So I definitely need to get in there and press it properly flat.

The hair kerchief is one I made years and years ago, blue roses on a yellow background, with toning blue ric rac trim round the edge, all in one of my favourite colour schemes, baby blue and soft yellow. Like the dress! A happy accident that the two matched :-)

Dabbling in pattern drafting, and adapting to weight changes

25 Nov

I’ve started teaching myself to draft patterns. I started with a bodice block using Winifred Aldrich’s book. (It’s metric! YAY!!! After drawing up this chemise in imperial, I gained a very deep appreciation for the simplicity and ease of the metric system.)

Sadly however the bodice wasn’t all it cracked up to be. It won’t fit without major changes. The back will come close but the front is short 5 or so cm. The block is based on the back nape-waist measurement, (left side of piccie)and kinda worked out from there, the front (right side) being based on the back. I am all out front, with a full bust, but a little flat back and flat shoulderblades (they naturally fall in the perfect position for ballet! But hard to fit …) I suspect that’s why the draft is so off.

The mess of the back shoulders came about because it totally didn’t look right when I first drew them, and I tried to compensate a bit. It wasn’t working so I left it for later, and continued on. I’d almost finished the instructions when my partner came in. One look at what I was doing and his whole being lit up in delight. ‘Oh! You’re drafting!’

The guy’s an engineer. And there I was basically trying to engineer a bodice. omgsoexciting!!!!1!!!!1!!

He gave it a quick look over my shoulder, noting the mess of the back shoulder. I explained ‘It just doesn’t look right and I’m not sure why.’

‘Did you check your measurements?’ He said eagerly.

‘Not yet, that was my next step.’

Sure enough, the original measurement was wrongly interpreted and once correct it looked much more like a proper back bodice shoulder.

The amusing thing was telling my mother, and later, my best friend. Their reactions were both rather bristly and defensive on my behalf. The word patronising may have been muttered.

Laughingly, I reminded them that, hey, come on, he’s never once patronised me in his life and, being an engineer, had been so excited to see me doing something so engineery when it came to sewing, which he knows I love so much. And he could not only share in it, but, oh how exciting! he might even be able to help me with this sewing I adore!

It’s an engineer thang. An often quite childlike delight and enthusiasm in engineery-things. Of course, mum and my friend immediately got it – mum’s family’s positively bristling with engineery types, and my best friend herself has an engineering degree. Their Feministic Principals were soothed.

Next I did a skirt block. It was obviously close enough to a good fit to be worth starting with ‘fashion’ fabric. Like with the bodice, years of experience of working with patterns meant that I could see what was likely to work and what wasn’t. A big head start, I suspect, in learning pattern drafting.

So I cut it out in a purple polkadot, ultimately aiming for a purple version of this:

Rockabilly Skirt but in purple

Mouthwateringly awesome huh? I’m dying to go swishing round Darwin in that lovely floofy hemline!

But … my weight changed and when I had time to finally sew up the polkadot fabric 6 weeks later it didn’t fit. At all. So unhappy! So frustrated! I want a pretty purple polkadot floofy-hemmed skirt!

On the bright side it was obvious that without that weight change the skirt block would have worked beautifully. Wow. A basic skirt block is definitely something with a very high return for energy in.

My drafting enthusiasm is now in a sad and sorry heap. Stupid weight changes! It’s too too depressing to have put all that effort into learning to draft the basic blocks, only to have them rendered unusable within a couple of months. And frustratingly my weight is still changing. It’s actually health thang. The PTSD affects my weight like crazy, and most of it’s not even really within my control. I think it’s made worse because my weight changes very evenly over my body, including across my shoulders and hips, which are the two points that are most important in fitting.

My mother observed a few weeks ago that all my adult life my weight’s fluctuated. DUH! She’s right!

Perhaps I need to embrace this, making things that are either a) stretchy b) easily adjustable (like wrap-around things) or c) have 10 different wardrobes I can switch between.

Adapting to fluctuating weight – brainstorming

  • I’m sewing a swirl dress, which is basically a very cool vintage-based back-wrap dress. (Only the hem to go now!) It’s got a good couple of inches adjustment inheret in it. It would make a great top with a little peplum too.
  • I could expand on the swirl dress concept.
  • I’m not a great fan of knit, (it’s hot) and I find it hard to get hold of good knits in natural fibres anyway.
  • Stretch-sateen cotton trousers – these seem to fit well through a range of sizes. Stretch-sateen is a lot easier to find these days than it used to be, so it may be a realistic fabric to build a wardrobe on.
  • Would stretch-sateen cotton also work over a range of skirt sizes? And if so where can I find it with purple polkadots?!
  • I’ve just cut out some wrap-around trousers in a light linen-cotton. I hope I like them.
  • Aa number of other trousers styles are adjustable on a day to day level, I could investigate those.
  • I hate wrap skirts, but there are other options like using an opening as part of a pleat.
  • I am not a fan of elastic but it may be ok if used judiciously (how???) in waistbands?
  • Making clothes so the girth is easily adjusted: eg attaching skirt front to bodice front, skirt back to bodice back, then sewing the sides up in one seam which is easier to adjust.
  • Floofy loose dresses are perfect for the climate I live in and for accommodating any weight changes. And fun to sew and wear :-)
  • I could try belting things, though it gets hot round my waist, but I’d probably get used to it.

As for where that leaves me with the pattern drafting, I really need to think about it more.

‘Well that didn’t work’

13 Nov

Let’s take a look at makes that didn’t work! I did a similar exercise years ago, and discovered every single make that didn’t work came down to either poor finishing or poor fitting, so I took some proper lessons. Best sewing thing I’ve done since actually learning to sew!

Ever since then I’ve keep a list of what I make and how it worked, but it’s good to take a specific look at what doesn’t work, to see what’s to be learnt. Feel free to comment honestly, whether to point out things I’ve missed, or just tell me I’m over-analysing :-P (And please excuse the mirror-selfies. My christmas wish list is basically ‘GOOD CAMERA‘)

Oh noes! My beautiful jacket? I’m so pleased with myself for having pulled the jacket off, but not so pleased with the actual jacket. Important distinction!

The fit just … Not Happy! Too big in the waist, and I’m not sure I can actually fit it close enough to look good either. The huge waist is the pattern itself. What looks like an hourglass pattern from the line drawings …


is, when you look at the actual pattern pieces, a box with godets at the waist. And I’m not a box with hips. Look at these piccies  – boxes with godets (with apologies to the women who were so kind to do pattern reviews on it). Gah!

I also adjusted the neckline, the original long rectangular neckline was going to look awful when I wore it open.

The peplum-effect is off too. I based the shape on this Burdastyle top, that I’ve made before and found it quite pleasing, but I didn’t pull it off in the jacket. (May not be clear from the pictures.)


Lessons – good

  • I can actually sew with cotton velveteen in this climate! Weehee!
  • A colour that suits me so beautifully draws attention away from poor fit and shape.

Lessons – bad

  • I’m mad at myself for not going with my gut instinct about the fit not being good for my body.
  • More than two major changes to a pattern (waist, peplum, neckline) … might be better looking for a pattern closer to what I actually want?

The A-line knit skirt in the jacket picture got chopped up to make t-shirt yarn. Why? The style was stupidly hard to style nicely on my figure, and the fabric faded badly.


Green dress with roses 

Disclaimer: I ADORE this dress. It’s easy to wear, cool, comfortable, pretty pretty fabric. Looks gorgeous irl, takes me anywhere.

It just isn’t what I intended! It was supposed to be a loose slouchy casual dress, but irl it’s rather dressy. The slouchy look on the pattern envelope isn’t the style, it’s that it doesn’t fit properly on the model. *sigh* Caught out.

I drafted the collar myself. The shoulders ended up too wide – I have to push my bra straps to the edge so they don’t show. (And if they show they look terrible) The collar doesn’t sit well over the buttons.


  • Pretty pretty fabric (especially poplin) is hard to make slouchy and casual! It is extra-important to use a casual pattern to pull it off. Or casual fabric. Perfectly matching hand-crochet trim and buttons aren’t gonna help either.
  • Duh, necklines duh. I made this one up myself, so it was my bad.

No idea about the collar. Use a proper pattern? Only extend the collar to the beginning of the button placket?

A fitting issue –

Guess what it is! (It isn’t the waist being too tight, trust me, these fit me in the waist.)


I still don’t know how to fit my little short back (or back waist?) properly! However, looking at other photos where it is fitted nicely they can be summed up in one word: Empire line.

I think it might be worth a post unto itself actually, comparing what is well-fitted, and what billows, and try to figure out WHY!

Beautiful! But …

I even managed to fit the back nicely!

What’s wrong? The damned thing kept creeping up over my bust and towards the back. The front nearly choked me. And yes, the shoulder seam was supposedly in the right place.


I don’t know! Another top, from this pattern, did it too. (Yeah, vintage, from an op-shop, why do you ask? :-D)

What was happening with the above pattern was not enough fabric across the front shoulders, so it was ‘borrowing’ from the wider bust area, which of course was lower down, so the whole thing slid backwards. Is this what my lovely white top did? I don’t know. I just know I wish I did know to avoid it ever again! Because a similar thing happened with my ‘walkaway dress’ muslin which was actually a top.

That’s enough! I might do more in my sewing visual diary, see what I come up with. I think I’ll do the opposite next blog post and look at why things work!

ETA: Just saw this post on the Sew Sorry So Fat blog. I might use that template (being nice and asking first because I’m just a naturally courteous person so they ain’t got nothing to snark at ;-P )