Adorably cute cat er I mean undies

20 May

I’ve been on a mission to sew cute undies. My favourite rtw ie the only ones I’ve found that fits me properly, are very short-lived and too expensive to keep buying them at the rate they keep dying.

Good thing I can sew. *phew*

I’ve been sewing mostly with woven fabrics as I have mostly woven scraps. It’s also a great excuse to buy 50cm of fabric I love but either can’t afford more of, or just reeelly don’t need to add to my stash.

In fact this fabric was one of those buys, made into the ‘sweet cotton panties’ pattern at gomakeme. It’s a really cute pattern, with the virtue of being cut on the straight grain, enabling you to squeeze it out of a smaller amount of fabric generally than bias-cut woven undies patterns. I adjusted the back to go under my buttocks, not in the ‘cheeky’ fit across them. I just prefer them that way, and I think they’re just as cute either way:-)

 

I’ve also been using up odds and ends of fabric from other makes that are such great prints I can’t let them go. This has a different application of leg elastic than above, I was trying out how soft lingerie elastic worked on craft cotton. Yeah, it does the job:-)

 

Another fabric I couldn’t let go.

 

I’m in love with these undies! They’re made from the bottoms part of this swimsuit pattern I got for 20c in the local op shop. I know I know, yes this pattern is for sale from anything like $30 – $60. Be jealous! I did have to size up a fair bit but changing sizes with undies is actually surprisingly simple.

Vogue 9230; ca. 1975; Misses' Swimsuit With Briefs and Hat. Lined-to-edge swimsuit has scooped neckline, cutaway armholes, close-fitting bodice, inset waistband extending to tie ends, peplum extending to side back, and detachable back panel with elasticized waistline. Lined-to-edge briefs have elasticized legs and waistline. Wide brimmed hat has six-gore crown, elasticized headcasing and topstitching. Purchased pre-gathered trim; purchased scarf. [insert your photos of this pattern made up]

Oh no wait, that wasn’t the undies! I’ll try again

.

Darn, still not quite. Lemme try again.

Aha, got it! This pattern is sooooo cutely retro. I love it. When sizing up I just had to make sure the width fit round my hips when I was sitting down, then extended the rise up to my waist, and it now fits, while keeping that cute retro look.

A bias-cut woven, finally! A tanga-style undies even. I made this one up myself, by using a knit tanga pattern I have and, er, I just cut them a bit bigger all round and was quite surprised when it turned out well, and perfectly comfortable.

I had a slight mishap first sew of the waistband though. I sewed them up with a twist between front and back. Oops.

Making my own undies is such fun:-) I’ll post the knit undies in another post. Enough piccies in this one!

Vintage Suit sewalong

8 May

So yes, I’ve joined the Vintage Suit Sewalong, because my track record with sewalongs is just so good, and I desperately need a suit in my life, and need a vintage suit even more!

<returns to reality>

I’ve joined the Vintage suit sewalong because even though I don’t think I’ve ever properly completed any sewalong I’ve joined, I love seeing everyone else’s sews coming along, and the finished products. I really don’t need a suit (I need leotards! I’m doing so much dance at the moment.). And I need a vintage suit even less. But the other reason I joined? Well… I have this pattern:

Photo in paper pattern file - Google Photos:

 

Indeed I’ve had this pattern for a very very very long time. I believe it is actually my first ever op-shop vintage pattern buy. I also believe, if I’m recalling correctly, it was 20c. Hit me hard in my hip pocket this pattern did! Oh wait hang on, we’re back in reality aren’t we. Yeah 20c. No wonder I nabbed itūüėÄ I haven’t sewn it yet. It is one of those patterns I’m sure I’ll sew one day. Maybe its time has come.

Let us take a look at the divine details:

A classic knee-length A-line skirt with two small darts in the front. I adore two small sweet darts instead of the usual boring tedious but perfectly serviceably single dart.

The jacket is a delightful length. Waist length, but just long enough no midriff would show as you move around. I have no problem with showing my midriff but I prefer to show it in the context of bellydancing, not so much an everyday context. But, but, but!!! That length of jacket would allow a nice swish of air round the waist. Inbuilt airconditioning is always a bonus in the tropics.

Behold the angled bust dart – I much prefer angled darts at the bust than boring, tedious but perfectly serviceable horizontal bust darts. The angled dart helps shape the waist of a garment without necessarily creating a curved waistline. It looks great on pinafore-style dresses too.

I don’t mind a notched collar. I’m not greatly excited by the pockets, mainly because all I can see of them is an extra few layers of fabric. HOT!!! so I’ll probably leave them off. And I like the sloping shoulders, considering mine are a classic coat-hanger-ish shape that requires more of a slope than most modern patterns have, to fit them properly

I really really like the fact this jacket won’t need a dicky or a camisole to be modest in the cleavage department. I won’t need to move the buttons up, coz believe me, there is no way I’ll be wearing anything under the jacket. That would constitute wearing more than one layer of fabric. HOT. Waaaay to hot.

Speaking of too hot, the sleeves are too long, so I’ll shorten them, and create a little summer suit of the style that I saw so many of in Brisbane’s CBD in summer when I lived there. Suits like these:

High quality professional summer ol lilac short-sleeve pant suit women's fashion business work wear twinset free shippingNew Pink Business Suits Women Work Wear Skirts Sets Short Sleeve Blazer Suits With Leopard Printed Spring Summer Suits Plus SizeTB2rFxEcFXXXXajXXXXXXXXXXXX-2126658491

 

I was, in fact, so in love with these adorable, short-sleeved suits that even though I didn’t work in a fancy office job in Brisbane’s CBD I made my own pantsuit out of a soft sage green ‘tropical’ wool randomly found in a dusty unkempt fabric shop in my local shopping centre. I wore it when I moved back to Darwin, too, because amazingly, that ‘tropical’ wool was cool enough to do so. For the record I used this pattern. So mid-90s! (hey, isn’t that vintage nowadays? ;-D)

I guess I’m trying to recreate that feel of being so put-together yet so well, er, suited, ahem, to the tropics. Having the experience of tropificying a suit pattern already, I feel equal to the task of tropficying my vintage suite pattern too. I’m considering making some trousers as well as the skirt – probably my usual 3/4 length ones, which could look quite cute with a short-sleeved matching jacket. Not sure though… Must think on it.

According to the Vintage Suit sewalong timetable, May is for muslining the suit. I’d better get on with it then!

Peasant dresses from Butterick 5130

5 May

I have a few makes from last year I haven’t blogged about. All the oomph went out of me when my beloved sewing companion HattieCattie¬†died last year. It didn’t help that she’s all through my sewing pictures, making it painful to look through them.

Anyway, having recovered some of that oomph … years ago I made up the¬†Butterick 5130¬†pattern (for knits).

,

I loved the dress and wore it to death, even though I was never greatly taken with the elastic halfway across the bust and back. It left me wondering kind of like er, why put them there???
So for last year’s version I simply eliminated that seam/elastic casing and created a simple empire-line peasant dress.

This would have worked well if the light knit rayon I used hadn’t been so thin you could see my bra underneath it (more obviously so in reality than in this picture), made worse by the weight of the dress dragging things down.

But the general idea of eliminating that seam worked well, so I redid the dress in a woven craft cotton. I measured the pattern before I cut it to make sure it would fit round me without needing stretch. It worked well apart from the sleeves being a tad too tight, but not unwearably so. (Look at the different lengths of my hair! One photo taken at the beginning of last year and the other taken at the end of last yearūüėÄ That’s a lot of added length for curly hair!)

I adjusted the sleeves and tried the new pattern out on a top. It is very comfortable now. I’ve since made another dress based on the pattern, too, but I lowered the under bust elastic to the true waist. I’ll have to blog about them both soon:-)

This pattern is a lot nicer than the pattern picture indicates, for the record!

Butterick 5130

Yeah I’m repetitive, I know, or: Another Burda 7109 make

19 Feb

Another nightie-pattern make.

Well you see, I saw this apron on pinterest (you know how it goes ;-P)

Shabby Chic

And I wanted one of my own! But I never wear aprons, and if I ever do I already have two very pretty (and practical) ones. Dresses on the other hand? Especially cool and flaringy dresses, I wear a lot. The higher the humidity, the more likely I’m in a dress.

Try as I might I couldn’t find a floral fabric similar, so I went for a totally different rose print, a bright¬†cotton-lycra sateen rose print in many colours that my dear friend Kathy¬†gifted men. Mmm! I had planned to make the fabric into a fit-and-flare dresss but never got round to it, not least coz there wasn’t enough fabric. Where was my brain when Kath¬†asked me how much I needed? There was, happily, enough to make an apron-dress.

This photo doesn’t show the shape too well so you’ll have to take my word for it that it’s shaped like the apron I found on Pinterest.

I even curved the hemline like the apron.

My interpretation of what an apron-dress’s back should be. I would have added more fabric to the back pleat by choice but didn’t have enough fabric. Oh well…

All this from my great fave nightie pattern, Retro repro burda 7109, which is a great trapeze shift dress when it’s not being a nightie:-)

A sort of copy…

18 Jan 20151128_180232

So wearable though! Which was the bit I was trying to copy the most. The result:

The inspiration. Doesn’t it look just so wearable?

new ivy style linen dress:

I pleated the neckline up on my dress from memory. The results were 3 big pleats instead of many small ones. (As you can tell I’m hopeless at taking selfies – I hardly ever take them.)

I love the back.

I am¬†most pleased with my dress. It’s made with¬†beautiful, thick but very breathable heavy linen that just falls and falls and falls. Mmmm! A $5pm special from Spotlight I’ve forgotten how long ago. Looking at that inspiration picture though I suddenly have the urge to dye it charcoal. uh… Let’s move on from that thought, shall we? (thinking of the yellow polyester thread I used to stopstitch. Hey hang on! That could look awesome! Uh….)

I know I know I’m sidetracking myself. Right, so the Important Stuff.

  1. It’s very wearable.
  2. It’s made using this TNT pattern, McCalls 8108. Lost count how many times I’ve used this pattern and how many variations I’ve made from it.
  3. I put little cap sleeves on to keep the sun from burning my shoulders.
  4. Mum’s observation on the dress¬†was ‘It’s very loose…’ Which I think was her polite way of saying it’s rather sacklike. Yup mum! That’s what I was after. I made it at the beginning of the build-up (our hottest, humidest, yukkiest time of year, Oct/Nov) and have worn it and worn it and worn it.
  5. Technically it looks lovely with a belt, especially a¬†mid-blue thin belt I found in an op shop a while back. But that adds degrees of heat to the dress so I never actually do wear¬†the¬†belt. And certainly wasn’t going to stand outside in the heat getting photos taken of me wearing this dress with a hot belt on. Nope. No way!

Alterations to the pattern were simple. I cut both front and back out with an extra 20cm or so added along centre front/centre back. I did the same with the facings, then sewed it up into a very wide dress, then pleated the front and back neckline back the normal width of the dress and sewed the pleats down about an inch from the neckline edging. Then wore it and wore it and wore it. You get the idea ;-P

I really do think it would look great overdyed with charcoal…

 

Style 4890, butterflies, poincianas and a beautiful house

6 Jan IMG_20151101_145250

Just look at that poinciana. How beautiful? I love love love flowering trees, and from mid year till christmas, Darwin gets one flowering tree after another after another. The poincianas flower during the worst weather of the year (Oct/Nov), so you get a very typically Darwin-like dichotomy of horrible weather and glorious colour.

Oh yeah, sorry, forgot to mention: I made a tunic-dress from Style 4890. See the little butterflies on the fabric? So sweet. (That’s my mum on the right, wearing a dress from Burda 8379)

If you’re not into the orange-reds of the poinciana, perhaps the cooler reds of this frangipani are more to your delight?

Oh yeah, sewing. I wanted something to test the pattern before I used it on this gloriously vibrant blue and white butterfly fabric:

,

This sweet green butterfly fabric jumped (flew?) out of my stash and volunteered for the job. I had enough for a tunic. Nice and cool to wear round the house, but works well with my bloomers for streetwear.

I love all the reds in this picture.

I love how easy it is to fit my back with the help of some shoulder darts so common in vintage patterns. Modern patterns should routinely have them too I reckon.

I sized the pattern up from the vintage size 12 to fit my modern size 12(ish), including an FBA, and am pleased with the result. ¬†I¬†didn’t have enough fabric for the pattern’s sleeves so I used my ubiquitous cap sleeve from the Amy Butler Lotus tunic pattern.

(I’ve never actually gotten round to making this pattern up, but I’ve used the cap sleeve on it more times than I can remember, so hey, it was a great buy, right?)

Amy Butler Lotus Tunic & Cami AB031LTC

I’ve subsequently sewn the blue and white butterfly dress, just need photos of it. Another post for another time.

The photos were taken at Burnett House, a National Trust property built in1938, during their sunday afternoon tea. Burnett house sits on the cliffs of Myilly Point overlooking Darwin Harbour. The architect, Burnett, designed houses especially suited to the tropics. Rows of louvres rather than windows and walls, roof cavities that let the hot air escape, and building at treetop level to catch the breezes that are cooled as they go through the trees are just some of his innovations. Apparently he was involved in designing the Raffles Bar in Singapore too.

My experience is that the more of his features a dwelling has, the cooler and more liveable it is, and (these days) the less aircon you er, ‘need’. (When I was a kid only really rich people had aircon and even then not usually throughout the entire house, nowadays everyone ‘needs’ it ;-P).

Imagine sleeping in this room. What this picture doesn’t show are the views of the cliffs overlooking the harbour, and the cool breeze stirring through the room even though it was a still hot day outside, in the hottest, yukkiest time of year. Definitely no aircon needed here!

I’ve never done a mirror-selfie in such a pretty setting before.

Well-loved sewing gear. (Remember those patterns, they’ll appear in another post.)

How special is this? The reverse is almost the same as the front. Certainly wasn’t done by an embroidery ham-fist like yours truly…

Another try at capturing the floral beauty of October/November in Darwin

Vintage pattern pledge makes

7 Dec

I’ve been diligently sewing vintage patterns all year, but have barely blogged about them. I want to include pattern reviews in my posts about them, but at the moment I’m so confused as to what I’ve sewn, I’ll just line them all up here. That way too, it’s easy for me to pin the pretty piccies to the pinterest vintage pattern pledge board.

Taking it from the top: Folkwear Russian Settler’s sarafan, blogged here.

Folkwear Russian Settlers' dressFolkwear Russian Settlers' Dress | Jumper, Blouse & Apron Sewing Pattern # 128 #Folkwear #RussianSettlersDress:

This blouse is a vintagey style pattern from a Burdastyle mag. Not sure if it counts for the vintage pattern pledge or not.

Folkwear’s Edwardian Underthings camisole (in silk/cotton Mmmmm!!!! With hand-crochet edgings too Mmmm!!!!)

Folkwear's Edwardian Underthings camisole Folkwear's Edwardian Underthings camisole

A nightie in a pattern I just HAD to get, because my mum had it when we were kids and she made my sister and I nighties and a robe to go with it. Simplicity 8198 The grey smudge is my new kitten, Ma’at:-)

Simplicity 8198Simplicity 8198 Misses' Nightgown and Robe in two lengths Size 12 UNCUT

And a top from the same pattern…

Simplicity 8198

Burda 7977 Not sure this counts either, as it’s more historical than vintage, and again, from a modern pattern. However I’m so glad I finally made it up, having long wanted a surcoat. Here’s my tropical version. I throw it over my dance or pilates gear going to and from the studio.

Burda 7977 surcoatBurda Misses Medieval Dress Costume 7977

 

Why yes thankyou! I do indeed have an ongoing love affair with vintage nightie patterns. This one is Simplicity 6047 made into a top.

Simplicity 6047 Vintage 70's Sewing Pattern Mod Babydoll Pajamas, Puff Sleeve Micro Mini Dress, Blouse, Panties, Nightgown, Maxi GownSimplicity 6047 Vintage 70's Sewing Pattern Mod Babydoll Pajamas, Puff Sleeve Micro Mini Dress, Blouse, Panties, Nightgown, Maxi Gown

And this one is Style 3010

style 3010 sewing patternstyle 3010 sewing pattern

Yet another version of Style 2172 which I’ve decided after goldilocking so many vintage nightie patterns, is my most fave of all…

Style 2172Style 2172

A lounge-dress out of Style 2363

Easy Nightdress 80s Sewing Pattern Style 2363 Vintage NightgownEasy Nightdress 80s Sewing Pattern Style 2363 Vintage Nightgown

A top made out of Simplicity 5030

Simplicity 5030 Vintage 70's Sewing Pattern Lace Yoke, Lacy Hem Shortie Babydoll Pajamas Set, Bloomers Panties, Nightgown, Long GownSimplicity 5030 Vintage 70's Sewing Pattern Lace Yoke, Lacy Hem Shortie Babydoll Pajamas Set, Bloomers Panties, Nightgown, Long Gown

Another version of the retro repro Burda 7109

Burda Misses and Women's Sleepwear 7109 Burda Misses and Women's Sleepwear 7109

(Not a nightie this time :-P) I’m so pleased I made this, too, even though I don’t like it and have plans to redo it into shorts. My version of the 1920’s 1 hr dress, with some pockets inspired by Tina Givens Marcella sewing pattern.

Tina Givens Marcella Dress sewing patternTina Givens Marcella Dress sewing pattern

Style 4890 for me in a wearable muslin, and my mum in Burda 8379 (not vintage!)

Burda 8379 and Style 4890

I’m still working on a few, such as this top from McCalls 4574. Goodness me, that isn’t a nightie pattern!70s Smock Top or Dress, McCalls 4574 Sewing Pattern70s Smock Top or Dress, McCalls 4574 Sewing Pattern

Finish off this version of Style 4890 (not the purple bit at the bottom – that’s the skirt I was wearing the day I was checking the fit.)

Style 4890

Finish off these knit wearable muslins of Wearing History’s sunkissed sweetheart shorts, and the actual shorts themselves.

Wearing History Sunkissed Sweetheart tropical separates - shorts wearable muslinWearing History Sunkissed Sweetheart tropical separates

Hopefully get a picture of the couple of pairs of undies I made using this Vogue 9230

Vogue 9230

Finish these gorgeous trousers from Decades of Style in an olive green linen.

illustration for 1930s sewing pattern for trousers from Decades of Style with wide, gently shaped pant leg

And last but not least a pair of shorts and maybe even a matching bra using Anna Depew’s Pauline tap pants and bra pattern.

Vintage Sewing Pattern Tap Panties Pdf Printable Copy 28 Waist Depew 2005B -INSTANT DOWNLOAD-

Oh, oops that isn’t the last one. That reminded me I started the Anna Depew bra sew-along¬†(hoping I’ll have enough remnants of the silk/cotton of the Edwardian camisole to make into the final bra. Mmmm!)

THIS is the last vintage sewing plan, honest! Honestly honest!

2013 new art

 

*phew* That’s quite a lot there! (Maybe some of those things I want to finish might end up in the 2016 Vintage Pattern Pledge:-)

%d bloggers like this: