I have just fitted my Simplicity 3559 dress. When tracing the pattern off I added a bit to the side seams, both front and back, because according to the actual garment measurements given on the pattern, the largest size in the envelope was a very snug fit for me – bust = 38 inches, to my body’s 37 inches One inch ease? Hmmm, too snug.
However in fitting the dress itself, I ended up shaving back off that extra, so it is probably pretty much the same size as the pattern size 14.
Now I want to know, is it that the actual garment measurements were wrong? (Perfectly likely to be the case. I forgot to measure the flat pattern to check that against the stated garment size. My mother always does, so she tells me smugly. I think it is a good habit, and am starting to do it, but I just forgot this time. Maybe coz Mum is in Italy at the moment and not around to smugify me into it.)
Or is it that one inch ease around the bust is actually all I need?
Or is it that, as I have discovered, well-fitted garments simply require less ease to produce the same amount of comfort in wearing as ill-fitting ones?
My skills in fitting are a lot better, mostly thanks to the online sewing community, than they were. I used to be good at judging ease needed for myself in different garments, before I got ill and lost a lot of weight, 6 yrs ago. But since my weight settled down again, I have this ease problem quite often.
Is it because of better fitting garments? Or, I suspect, as my sewing couldn’t keep up with the weight changes I’ve worn a lot of op-shop rtw clothes in the last few years, each of which fits in a different way. Clothes I sew myself tend to be consistent in fit, the op-shop rtw clothes could be throwing my judgement off.
Or I could just be a bit inaccurate in my body shape/size image, my head having had trouble keeping up with the physical changes my body has gone through in the past few years.
Whatever has caused it, it really annoys me! It is so impractical when you are sewing for your own sweet self!
I may just need to do some serious measuring of garments that fit me nicely and take a notes on their ease. Measuring of garments that don’t fit well might also help!
While on fitting, I read this article on toiles and the accompanying comments in Burdastyle. It is really interesting.