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Yeah I’m repetitive, I know, or: Another Burda 7109 make

19 Feb

Another nightie-pattern make.

Well you see, I saw this apron on pinterest (you know how it goes ;-P)

Shabby Chic

And I wanted one of my own! But I never wear aprons, and if I ever do I already have two very pretty (and practical) ones. Dresses on the other hand? Especially cool and flaringy dresses, I wear a lot. The higher the humidity, the more likely I’m in a dress.

Try as I might I couldn’t find a floral fabric similar, so I went for a totally different rose print, a bright cotton-lycra sateen rose print in many colours that my dear friend Kathy gifted men. Mmm! I had planned to make the fabric into a fit-and-flare dresss but never got round to it, not least coz there wasn’t enough fabric. Where was my brain when Kath asked me how much I needed? There was, happily, enough to make an apron-dress.

This photo doesn’t show the shape too well so you’ll have to take my word for it that it’s shaped like the apron I found on Pinterest.

I even curved the hemline like the apron.

My interpretation of what an apron-dress’s back should be. I would have added more fabric to the back pleat by choice but didn’t have enough fabric. Oh well…

All this from my great fave nightie pattern, Retro repro burda 7109, which is a great trapeze shift dress when it’s not being a nightie 🙂

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Vintage pattern pledge makes

7 Dec

I’ve been diligently sewing vintage patterns all year, but have barely blogged about them. I want to include pattern reviews in my posts about them, but at the moment I’m so confused as to what I’ve sewn, I’ll just line them all up here. That way too, it’s easy for me to pin the pretty piccies to the pinterest vintage pattern pledge board.

Taking it from the top: Folkwear Russian Settler’s sarafan, blogged here.

Folkwear Russian Settlers' dressFolkwear Russian Settlers' Dress | Jumper, Blouse & Apron Sewing Pattern # 128 #Folkwear #RussianSettlersDress:

This blouse is a vintagey style pattern from a Burdastyle mag. Not sure if it counts for the vintage pattern pledge or not.

Folkwear’s Edwardian Underthings camisole (in silk/cotton Mmmmm!!!! With hand-crochet edgings too Mmmm!!!!)

Folkwear's Edwardian Underthings camisole Folkwear's Edwardian Underthings camisole

A nightie in a pattern I just HAD to get, because my mum had it when we were kids and she made my sister and I nighties and a robe to go with it. Simplicity 8198 The grey smudge is my new kitten, Ma’at 🙂

Simplicity 8198Simplicity 8198 Misses' Nightgown and Robe in two lengths Size 12 UNCUT

And a top from the same pattern…

Simplicity 8198

Burda 7977 Not sure this counts either, as it’s more historical than vintage, and again, from a modern pattern. However I’m so glad I finally made it up, having long wanted a surcoat. Here’s my tropical version. I throw it over my dance or pilates gear going to and from the studio.

Burda 7977 surcoatBurda Misses Medieval Dress Costume 7977

 

Why yes thankyou! I do indeed have an ongoing love affair with vintage nightie patterns. This one is Simplicity 6047 made into a top.

Simplicity 6047 Vintage 70's Sewing Pattern Mod Babydoll Pajamas, Puff Sleeve Micro Mini Dress, Blouse, Panties, Nightgown, Maxi GownSimplicity 6047 Vintage 70's Sewing Pattern Mod Babydoll Pajamas, Puff Sleeve Micro Mini Dress, Blouse, Panties, Nightgown, Maxi Gown

And this one is Style 3010

style 3010 sewing patternstyle 3010 sewing pattern

Yet another version of Style 2172 which I’ve decided after goldilocking so many vintage nightie patterns, is my most fave of all…

Style 2172Style 2172

A lounge-dress out of Style 2363

Easy Nightdress 80s Sewing Pattern Style 2363 Vintage NightgownEasy Nightdress 80s Sewing Pattern Style 2363 Vintage Nightgown

A top made out of Simplicity 5030

Simplicity 5030 Vintage 70's Sewing Pattern Lace Yoke, Lacy Hem Shortie Babydoll Pajamas Set, Bloomers Panties, Nightgown, Long GownSimplicity 5030 Vintage 70's Sewing Pattern Lace Yoke, Lacy Hem Shortie Babydoll Pajamas Set, Bloomers Panties, Nightgown, Long Gown

Another version of the retro repro Burda 7109

Burda Misses and Women's Sleepwear 7109 Burda Misses and Women's Sleepwear 7109

(Not a nightie this time :-P) I’m so pleased I made this, too, even though I don’t like it and have plans to redo it into shorts. My version of the 1920’s 1 hr dress, with some pockets inspired by Tina Givens Marcella sewing pattern.

Tina Givens Marcella Dress sewing patternTina Givens Marcella Dress sewing pattern

Style 4890 for me in a wearable muslin, and my mum in Burda 8379 (not vintage!)

Burda 8379 and Style 4890

I’m still working on a few, such as this top from McCalls 4574. Goodness me, that isn’t a nightie pattern!70s Smock Top or Dress, McCalls 4574 Sewing Pattern70s Smock Top or Dress, McCalls 4574 Sewing Pattern

Finish off this version of Style 4890 (not the purple bit at the bottom – that’s the skirt I was wearing the day I was checking the fit.)

Style 4890

Finish off these knit wearable muslins of Wearing History’s sunkissed sweetheart shorts, and the actual shorts themselves.

Wearing History Sunkissed Sweetheart tropical separates - shorts wearable muslinWearing History Sunkissed Sweetheart tropical separates

Hopefully get a picture of the couple of pairs of undies I made using this Vogue 9230

Vogue 9230

Finish these gorgeous trousers from Decades of Style in an olive green linen.

illustration for 1930s sewing pattern for trousers from Decades of Style with wide, gently shaped pant leg

And last but not least a pair of shorts and maybe even a matching bra using Anna Depew’s Pauline tap pants and bra pattern.

Vintage Sewing Pattern Tap Panties Pdf Printable Copy 28 Waist Depew 2005B -INSTANT DOWNLOAD-

Oh, oops that isn’t the last one. That reminded me I started the Anna Depew bra sew-along (hoping I’ll have enough remnants of the silk/cotton of the Edwardian camisole to make into the final bra. Mmmm!)

THIS is the last vintage sewing plan, honest! Honestly honest!

2013 new art

 

*phew* That’s quite a lot there! (Maybe some of those things I want to finish might end up in the 2016 Vintage Pattern Pledge 🙂

Vintage nightie collection, Simplicity 6047

9 Nov

Ok so I have a bit of a thing for the babydoll with bloomers style of nightie. This make, however, is simply a top.

I was inspired greatly by Amanda of Bimble and Pimble‘s Alice top make. So pretty, yet so cool and comfortable. I made three tops from vintage nightie patterns as a result, two more yet to be blogged about.) It’s become one of my favourite tops.

As you can see I cut the neckline out a bit for coolness, making sure the lines of the neck opening worked well with the shape of the yoke.

I kept the very puffed sleeves, of course – as explained before, it’s an Anne of Green Gables thang 🙂 The first time I wore it I kept seeing the huge puffs out of the corner of my eye and felt quite self concious. But I decided not to adjust them because, well, puffed sleeves! Now after the nth time wearing it I adore them.

MOMSPatterns Vintage Sewing Patterns - Simplicity 6047 Vintage 70's Sewing Pattern SWELL Mod Babydoll Pajamas, Puff Sleeve Micro Mini Dress Blouse, Panties, Nightgown, Maxi Gown Size 10:

I couldn’t get a shot that showed the very pretty yellow trim around the edges of the yoke, but rest assured, it’s there 🙂

I’m stoked by the back. I am definitely improving at adjusting for my short back. (More than just a sway back. I’m very short, or maybe just flat, in my middle back.)

The skirt is my basic skirt pattern I’ve made a million times before, this time in denim based on a skirt I found in an op shop from Glassons years ago. Such a classic style, like the original, I’m wearing it frequently. Long splits at each side make it beautifully cool, even for denim.

One last photo, showing the top with a sash at the waist, my favourite way of wearing it. And sleepwalking is my favourite way of taking mirror-photos ;-P

Like my garden? I’m so happy with the lime in the left of the outdoor pictures. It is giving a steady crop of little Tahitian limes. Half a lime in a glass of cool water. Mmmm!

 

Vintage nightie collection: Style 3010

1 Nov

Last year I joined the Vintage Pattern Pledge, which got me finally using some of my coveted but never sewn vintage patterns. It was so much fun this year I just kept sewing up vintage patterns. Most of them so far this year have been nighties. Well, variations on a vintage nightie them.

Apart from the appeal of living in one’s jammies or nighties, the general lack of figure-huggingness makes up into clothing just perfect for the heat and humidity that characterises my home, Darwin.

Style 3010 vintage nightie pattern dress

Teal butterflies! What more can a girl want? Well, enough fabric left on the roll to make a dress. Lacking that I just bought what was left, and realised when I shopped my stash it went beautifully with this turquoise linen. I was a bit worried the linen would be hot but it’s loose weave so it’s actually quite breezy.

I used Style 3010

style 3010 sewing pattern - Google Search

It’s a bit of a coffin-nightie. The back is a basic shift dress, not empire line like the front. Not sure if the designer thought it would be more comfortable in bed? The back of the negligee was empire-line however, so I used that instead. The sleeve has a smooth head but I always need to increase in the bicep, which usually ends up accidentally increasing the sleeve head. Rather than adjust it back out, I usually just gather it up. It’s an Anne of Green Gables thang ;-P

Style 3010 vintage nightie pattern dress

The skirt’s a bit wider than the pattern too. I’m not as skinny in the hips compared to waist and bust as the pattern seemed to think a woman ought to be, so I just used double the width of the fabric. I think it came out looking close to the original style.

My only real issue with this is the bust dart. Creating my usual FBA, I decided to split the dart into two. I had considered rotating some of the extra out at the side-front of the bodice. That’s very easy in an empire top but the pattern had hardly any of the bust shaping there and I wanted to stay true to the style out of curiousity more than anything.

The two darts were very hard to get sitting just right. In the end I went for ‘the best I can achieve while keeping my sanity’. The sides just kept puffing out. Faffing with it after it was finished revealed it’s due to being a bit big across the front, rather than having two darts being the problem. But hey, it’s a nightie-dress. Loose is good! And I’ve learnt something for next time.

Here’s my favourite picture. No I wasn’t doing ballet (not then anyway ;-P), I was picking a black thread off the skirt I’d noticed as my picture was being taken!

Style 3010 vintage nightie pattern dress

A christmas vintage nightie

20 Oct

My sister in law Sandra has long been a fan of my vintage nighties. I’m planning on making her a christmas present of  a pretty floral vintage nightie of her own. And as she wants to learn to sew better, but hasn’t had much chance to learn, as part of her present I’ll give her the nightie pattern and a tutorial on how to sew one herself.

My main issue is fit – she lives some thousands of kilometres away. Badly organised of us, isn’t it 😦 Sandra’s sending me a top that fits her to help me get the size right. I’ve been trying to figure out a pattern for her – my go-to vintage nightie pattern is originally a vintage (ie tiny!) size 10. I’ve upsized it to fit me, but I don’t feel confident it can upsize further (She’s a tad bigger than me) while keeping the integrity of the pattern. You know how it is! Patterns can be sized up or down approximately 2 sizes, but usually not more before the fit gets so warped you have to start over again with a bigger or smaller draft.

I’ve been looking for a solution… and I found this in a local charity-run op-shop.
Isn’t it deliciously hideous???

Simplicity 7944 womens nightgown and robe by RavensNestPatterns, $8.00:

It’ll probably be too big (given it’s modern sizing, thus huge …) But between it, my go-to pattern, and her nicely-fitting top, I feel confident I can create a decent nightie pattern. Here’s my tiny-sized vintage go-to nightie pattern, isn’t it pretty?

It makes up like this:

And this:

I reckon I know how to turn Hideous into Pretty. There are two big differences between the patterns:

1)Hideous has a very full, straight skirt, Pretty has a gently-gathered, moderately-full at the top, a-line skirt.

2)Hideous has a yoke that comes across from the front of the armscye, Pretty’s yoke goes just underneath the armscye. I know from a pattern similar to Hideous but much prettier (also, sadly a tiny size) shown below, a yoke finishing at the mid-armscye can look Pretty, and is also roomy for sleeping in. My go-to yoke under the arm pattern can be restricting across the upper bust when wriggling in your sleep like I do. Mid-armscye yokes have their merits.

Hmm…. I notice this pattern’s skirt is also a moderately-full A-line.

A minor difference between Hideous and Pretty, is how the gathers are arranged. Hideous is gathered evenly across the yoke. Pretty has them gathered where the fullness is actually needed – above each bust. The back gathers are concentrated in the centre, which also looks pretty.

Then there’s the pattern art. Pretty’s pattern art uses Very Pretty Fabrics. Hideous’s pattern art uses, well, hideous fabric. I can’t imagine that blue fabric being anything other than ugly, staticy harsh nylon stable knit of the type my Granny would be very familiar with. Ugh.

But that needn’t bother anyone as, of course, Sandra’s nightie is going to be made in Very Pretty Fabric!
T2Xv57XchaXXXXXXXX_!!20371978

Oh, and the Hideous pattern cost 20c. The woman at the counter tried to charge me only 10c.I said ‘Oh it said patterns were 20c.’
‘Oh! … Well I’d better charge you 20c then!’
‘Yes I think you ought to!’

🙂

ETA: My beloved partner proofreader seemed to think the Hideous pattern wasn’t all that Hideous, really. Well, each to their own, I think it’s Hideous 😛

A fascination with vintage nighties

13 Oct

A sewing friend’s 10 yr old daughter is interested in learning to sew. They’ve decided to start with bags and move on to a nightie.

 

Of course, I have to do what I can to help my friend inspire her daughter to sew! Thus, I’ve been er *cough* researching nighties all afternoon. My tastes tend towards vintagey, old-fashionedy stuff, so that’s what I was *coughs* researching… I’m sure a 10 yr old will find them as fascinating as I do, right? Right!

There are a number of basic types of nightie patterns – I tried to find versions with appealing pattern envelope art but if necessary, ignore the art and just look at the lines of the garment. All these are for sale on Etsy, at varying prices.
Yoked – straight-ish, v-necked or roundish
Simplicity 8198 Misses Nightgown and Robe Pattern, Two Lengths, Size 14

McCalls 3155 1980s Misses Pullover Tent Dress Muu Muu Pattern Scoop Sweetheart Neck Womens Vintage Sewing Pattern Size XL B 44 46 UNCUT

Simplicity 5030 1970s Misses Baby Doll Pajamas Nightgown Pattern Womens Vintage Sewing Pattern Size Medium Bust 34 36 OR Small Bust 31 32

Simplicity 6047 misses size 14 bust 36" waist 28" Nightgown shortie PJ pajamas loungewear vintage Sewing Pattern
So many fancy variations on the yoke theme.

Kwik Sew 994 1970s Misses Evening Length Nightgown Pattern Raglan Sleeve Womens Sewing Pattern Size xs s m l Bust 31 - 41 UNCUT
1920s Women"s Nightgown Dress Lingerie Sewing Pattern Minerva 5783 Bust 34
7237 Simplicity petite 6 Miss Pattern Misses Nightgown in Two Lengths Panties Vintage 1975 Uncut

OOP Folkwear Sewing Pattern 224 Beautiful Dreamer Womens NIghtgown Size 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Bust 30 1/2 to 42 UnCut 1900s Nightgowns
Vintage nightdress pajamas & sleepsuit sewing pattern - Style 3388 - size 10 - 12 - 14 - 16 ( 32.5" - 34" - 36" - 38" bust) - 1981 - unused
Kwik Sew 876 1970s Misses Kimono Sleeve Peignoir and Nightgown Pattern Womens Vintage Sewing Patterns Size S M L XL Bust 32 - 45 UNCUT

 

This gorgeous crochet-yoked nightie was from a magazine pattern illustration. You can find crochet yoke patterns here: http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/html/warm/crochet.htm
EARLY 1900"s COTTON NIGHTGOWN dress under layer L

Then there’s the straight thru, one-piece types.
1969 Sew-Knit-N-Stretch 214 Ladies Nightgown Sizes S-M-L Kerstin Martensson Baby Doll Nightgown Sewing Pattern Misses PJ Pattern u

This one is one-piece straight through but some views have elastic to pull it in under waist to create an empire look.
Size 8&10 Vintage 60s Misses" Baby Doll Nightgown In 2 Lengths Jiffy Simplicity Sewing Pattern 8252 Sizes 8 10

So uninspiring! Kwik Sew art just doesn’t do it for me…
Kwik Sew 2239 Misses Tank Style Nightgown and Camisole PatternLingerie Womens Sewing Pattern Size XS S M L XL Bust 31 - 45 UNCUT

I’m in love with this one and may have to either buy it or work out how to draft it myself.
Kwik Sew 993 1980s Misses Evening Length V Neck Nightgown Pattern Lettuce Edging Womens Sewing Pattern Size xs s m l Bust 31 - 41 UNCUT

Empire line is another classic nightie style, but its success as a wearable garment, I’ve always felt, depends on having perky boobs, which I don’t. Probably not so much of an issue for my friend’s 10yr old 😛 Here are some pretty variations!
Kwik Sew 717 1970s Misses LINGERIE Pattern Full Slip Pattern Lettuce Edging Womens Vintage Sewing Pattern Size s m l xl Bust 32 - 43 UNCUT
Simplicity 1136 1940s Ladies Lingerie Pattern Misses Nightgown Negligee Pattern Womens Vintage Sewing Pattern Size 12 Bust 30
Vogue 8887 / Vintage 70s Sewing Pattern / Nightgown Empire Gown Babydoll Pajamas Panties / Size 12 Bust 34
Never Used Pattern Pieces 1940s Butterfly Nightgown Anne Cabot"s Needlecraft Corner 5138 All 3 Sizes Possible

Some are (often strange) conglomerations of many style details.
1940s yoke and cut on sleeve fancy thingie. Or is it a raglan-sleeve straight-through nightie?
Vintage 50s Nightgown Pattern New York 1210 Size 17 Bust 35 UNCUT
1980s glam girl!

Sexy ROBE & NIGHTGOWN, UNCUT, F/F, Size 16-18, Bust 38"- 40", Butterick 4669.
1940s
1942 Simplicity 4456 Size Bust 34 Hip 37 Casablanca-Style Womens Nightgown Sewing Pattern Vintage Sewing Pattern Supply Lana Turner Gown

Then there are the ‘wtf you’re planning to sleep in that?’ nightie styles. (I think the above might qualify for this category too.)
VTG McCall"s 4731 Misses V Plunge Nightgown and Pinafore Look Nightgown Pattern, Size Petite, UNCUT

Yes this WAS designed as a nightie!

Vintage Simplicity 4980 1950s nightgown pattern Bust 30 shelf bust tie shoulder fitted waist Full skirt Grecian peasant dress

So was this!
Kwik Sew 1813 1980s Misses Lace NIGHTGOWN Pattern Drop Waist Overlay Skirt Womens Vintage Sewing Pattern Size xs s m l Bust 31 - 41 UNCUT

 

More Burda 7109, in a slightly more orthodox form.

15 Jul

I love this pattern so much I also made the pyjamas view up.

Burda 7109 pyjamas front view, and fabric doll

I found the softest, silkiest pure cotton poplin in a fabric range called ‘spots and stripes’ from Spotlight. It made up beautifully into the jammies! Sooooo soft and gentle for sleeping in. I couldn’t bring myself to wear the shortie-shorts. I just think they’d look terrible on me, so I simply lengthened them to mid-thigh length. It worked just fine and I don’t cringe when I see myself in the mirror. Always a bonus!

The dolly is called Beckie, she’s a wood elf, and is the prototype for the pattern that mum and I used when making my daughter’s and niece’s dollies.

Burda 7109 pyjamas back

burda 7109 pyjamas and fabric doll

 

The fabric was so divinely soft, and the pattern so much fun I made up another pair, lavender purple apples (that’s a strange combination of colour and pattern, isn’t it?) I omitted the frill this time, just for a change.

burda 7109 pyjamas front view

Burda 7109 pyjamas back view

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